Physics

Tsunami

Propagate a long wave across variable ocean depth with a conservative shallow-water solver. Observe slowing, shoaling and reflection while checking water-volume conservation.

By Mykhailo Makarov

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A long wave crosses an ocean and slows over a shelf. Linear shallow-water solver; surface amplitude is magnified. Boundaries reflect. No breaking or coastal inundation model.

Equations used in the module

Equations
ηt + Qx = 0; Qt + g H(x) ηx = 0
c = √(gH)
Green shoaling law (slow depth change): A ∝ H^(−1/4)
Reflecting boundaries Q = 0; ∫η dx conserved

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